Icelandic music icon Björk graced the cover of the April-May issue of Vogue Scandinavia, making her debut appearance on the fashion magazine in what is described as “the year’s most iconic dress.” This eye-catching outfit consisted of a sheer, nude tulle slip layered over a waist-cinching corset, silicone hip prosthetics, and a merkin made from real human hair painstakingly embroidered to the crotch of an underlaid silk tulle stocking bodysuit by John Galliano for Maison Margiela’s spring 2024 haute couture collection.
Galliano’s collection was inspired by the underbelly of Paris, particularly looking at the photographer Brassaï’s voyeuristic portraits of nighttime revelers in the French capital. The bush-like adornments on the garments in the collection seemed to reference the historic use of merkins by sex workers to conceal shaving, scarring, or signs of disease. The collection received rave reviews and caused a stir on social media when it was first shown in January, with several designs featuring similar hairy flourishes.
While Kendall Jenner was the first celebrity to wear a look from Margiela’s collection at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party, Björk took the limelight by debuting one of Galliano’s haute merkins off the runway. The singer expressed her honor at wearing the garment and shared her emotions about the experience on Instagram, stating that it was a profound moment for her. Björk has a longstanding history with Margiela, having worn pieces from the designer’s collection for the cover of her first album “Debut” in 1993.
The use of merkins in fashion has sparked conversations surrounding the concept of body hair and its representation in the industry. Björk’s choice to wear the garment on the cover of Vogue Scandinavia reflects a shift towards embracing natural beauty and challenging conventional standards of beauty. The daring fashion statement made by the singer and designer duo has sparked discussions about the intersection of fashion, art, and culture, pushing boundaries and redefining traditional norms.
Björk’s appearance in Galliano’s creation has signified a return to embracing the bush, challenging societal norms around body hair and presenting a bold and provocative statement. The collaboration between the iconic singer and visionary designer has not only captivated the fashion world but has also sparked conversations around representation, diversity, and inclusivity in the industry. By incorporating elements of history, culture, and art into their work, Björk and Galliano have created a powerful and thought-provoking moment that will be remembered for its boldness and creativity.
